Issue 004: Tortang talong
A Filipino breakfast from Sai Villafuerte
Can you picture your favourite childhood breakfast? I can mine: white sliced bread (preferably Warburtons), Tesco own-brand crunchy peanut butter and instant coffee with a splash of milk. It’s not a breakfast I’ve eaten regularly since my uni days, after graduating to a strictly-sourdough, indie nut butter and freshly-ground filter coffee regime. However, I know that it would take me right back to my mum’s kitchen if I did.
This week’s newsletter features a guest recipe from Sai Villafuerte, a friend and former colleague. Sai shares her recipe for a traditional Filipino breakfast, one that she’s been enjoying cooking regularly since returning home to the Philippines late last year, and one that reminds her of home, wherever she is in the world.
As Sai describes in her introduction to the recipe, the kind of breakfast you encounter in South East Asia is often much heartier than what we typically choose day-to-day here in Britain. Indeed, one of the best things about holidays in Malaysia as a kid was the thrill of eating noodles for breakfast: at the hotel buffet where we’d stay in Penang, the usual continental fare was complimented by a wok station where chefs would cook up individual portions of mee goreng and char kuey teow while you waited.
Because as the saying goes – breakfast is the most important meal of the day, so why wouldn’t you want to make a meal of it?
A note on the format of the newsletter – after two wonderful guest recipes this month, from here onwards I plan to alternate between recipes from me and guest recipes. For my next newsletter in a fortnight’s time I’ll be sharing how to make a classic Malay/Singaporean dish, Hainan Chicken Rice, which I had the joy of cooking last weekend. Thanks for subscribing, and if you’ve been enjoying it, please do forward it on to a friend, or tag me on Instagram @jw_cooks!
Tortang talong by Sai Villafuerte
Filipino cuisine is unique in the sense that, for the most part, dishes can be adapted for any time of the day. The Filipino breakfast embodies this very adaptability.
To my friends in Europe, a plate of rice, eggs, viand (editor’s note: in Filipino cuisine, a meat, seafood or vegetable dish that accompanies rice) and sauce sounds like something you would have for lunch or dinner. But in the Philippines, where hard work under the tropical sun, nearly 365 days a year, really pays off, your first meal of the day should fuel you. My British friends often question my early morning decisions, like why I am eating egg fried rice in the morning.
Beef? Fish? Pork? For breakfast?
If you think about it, it makes complete sense. Yes, food nourishes and comforts – but it is an equally important source of sustenance. Thus, the Filipino breakfast is nutritionally optimal, striking that balance between carbs, protein, and fat.
Since arriving back in the Philippines from London late last year, I have made tortang talong most mornings – a pan-fried aubergine omelette. Typically, tortang talong is enjoyed with a ground pork filling but I prefer the vegetarian version, striking the balance between clean nourishment and distinct deliciousness. I also move around a lot – so, no matter where I am in the world, this dish is a sure-fire win for me.
I usually serve my tortang talong with a side of banana ketchup (fermented banana and vinegar sauce) and rice seasoned with palapa and spring onions. Palapa is a condiment frequently used in the southern region of Mindanao, made with coconut meat, onions, ginger, siling labuyo (local chili), sakurab (local spring onions) and salt. I bought mine from Ritual on Arnaiz Avenue — a quaint “general store” that I would recommend to anyone visiting Manila — which they sourced from Datu Paglas in Maguindanao. While palapa is totally optional, and quite rare to come by in the Western hemisphere, this recipe from Bon Appétit is a decent introduction for acquainting yourself with its flavour.
Similarly, although the banana ketchup is the staple side sauce of tortang talong, I would say it is optional too. If you are keen to try it, there is a good chance of stumbling upon a bottle in your local Asian grocery, especially if you are near Earl’s Court in London where there is a big Filipino community. You can also try making your own, as I have done before, using this video recipe. Filipino banana ketchup is normally made with a special variety of plantain that is sweet, called saba. But given continental differences in agriculture, as with other ingredients, it is totally okay to adapt to what is locally available and use normal bananas!
The following recipe is a guide for making tortang talong. I emphasise the word guide, because, as I mentioned, Filipino food is highly adaptable and can be whatever you want it to be. A strict recipe would simply not do this dish justice.
Once you get a hang of this you can add more ingredients or modify certain steps. Remember, creativity belongs in the kitchen! Use it!
Tortang talong (pan-fried aubergine omelette)
Serves 1
Ingredients
For the tortang talong
1 globe aubergine, skin on and halved lengthways*
2 eggs
Butter or olive oil
Salt & pepper
For the rice
1 cup of cooked brown rice
Spring onions, sliced
½ teaspoon of palapa (optional)
Salt & pepper
For sides
1 tablespoon of banana ketchup (optional)
* This recipe was adapted to accommodate for globe aubergines — the big, round, and deep purple variety that is ubiquitous in the UK and Europe. In Asia, long and skinny aubergines are more common, which makes roasting it whole much easier. If you can get hold of the Chinese or Japanese variety, reduce the roasting time to 30 minutes. If you have made baba ganoush before, this recipe uses the same technique for roasting aubergines, except you keep the stem on (mainly for aesthetic purposes!)
I also personally think one globe aubergine serves more than one person. After you have roasted and peeled its skin, you can keep the aubergine in the fridge. That way, you have prepped in advance and can use it for another meal. For Asian aubergines, one serves one person and does not need to be halved.
Method
Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. Pierce holes onto the skin of the aubergine on all sides with a fork and place on a baking tray inside the oven; the holes will allow the aubergine to cook from the inside and let the steam through. With the cut side down, roast the aubergine for 45-50 minutes, or until the skin is charred, the flesh is soft, and its shape has collapsed. In a bowl, crack the eggs, season with salt and pepper, and beat. Set aside.
After 45-50 minutes, take the aubergines out of the oven and leave until they are cool enough to touch. Gently peel the aubergine skin off. Place on a plate and flatten the aubergine with a fork.
For the rice, make sure it is hot. Season and mix the cooked rice with spring onions, palapa (if using), salt, and pepper. Pack the rice into a small cup. Place your serving plate on top of the cup and flip it over to create a dome-shaped pile of rice.
Heat a frying pan on medium heat with a stick of butter or dollop of olive oil. Place the flattened aubergine on the pan and pour in the egg mixture. As it is cooking, use a spatula to push the runny egg towards the aubergine, making sure to wrap and coat it before the egg cooks through. Fry for around 5 minutes, then flip over to cook the other side. Serve on your plate with the rice and a side of banana ketchup.
Sai Villafuerte is a freelance journalist and has contributed for publications such as Vice, CNN, Munchies and Huck. She co-founded Edsa, a collaboration exploring food and creativity, and hosts a regular show on Manila Community Radio under the alias Versailles. Check out her work online here and follow her on Instagram @sai.versailles.
JW Recommends
L’Hurluberlu by Sebastien David (St. John Wine)
I picked up a bottle of this wine from Salthouse Bottles in Brockley to have with a BBQ a few weeks ago, and I can’t recommend it enough. A biodynamic cabernet franc from the Loire Valley in France that’s best served chilled, it’s a fruity, juicy, supremely ‘smashable’ delight as they say in the natural wine world. Get yourself a bottle and stick it in the fridge before the summer’s out, you won’t be disappointed.
For those not based in South East London, Forest Wines offer wider UK shipping.
Music for Cooking To
This week’s playlist has also been curated by Sai. A laidback selection of jazz, r’n’b and psychedelic rock, it’s the perfect soundtrack for making breakfast. Sai has has kindly recorded a mixed version of the playlist, and it’s also available to listen to on Spotify.
